Think Where Man’s Glory Most begins And Ends, And Say My Glory Was I had Such Friends

The title from today’s post is aptly from Yeats. I have been blessed in family and friends my entire life. Travel can bring out the best or the worst and I’ve been fortunate that it’s always been the best.  This most recent adventure was a remarkable trip and wonderful to be able to spend time with my sister, her sister-in-laws, and sisters from other mothers.  

Sunday was a departure day for the Mississippi/OK girls as they needed to head to Dublin for their flights out Monday. It was a good thing their departure wasn’t until 2:00pm as the group was definitely under the weather following Saturday’s last day together celebrating.  The weather remained perfect so Faye, Ida and I had a good morning doing the Long Walk along Galway Bay thru Salthill. The swans were out in great numbers and the locals were all out biking, picnicking and playing.  The rest of the crew was in recovery mode but rallied to at least have coffee in the lounge before their driver showed up. It was a great end to the trip and we’re looking forward to reconvening in the states over the summer.

Faye and I both celebrated Roger (Ida’s brother-in-law) & Ed’s memories.  They were two extraordinary men called home much too soon. Ed and I were fortunate to have been married, worked and traveled together for nearly 30 years.  He and Roger shared good times in Mississippi, Florida and Chicago.  They both shook their heads more than a few times at the antics of the Heidkamps and the Heidkamp women in particular.  

Ed particularly loved our trips to Ireland. Ed, we raised the parting glass to you in several of your favorite pubs plus several new ones.  I’m certain our staying out and getting nuts would have made you shake your head.  I’m also you would have stayed out with us just to make sure we didn’t fall into a hedgerow on the way home.  

Suaimhneas Siorai Air Ed & Roger

The Key To Galway Is A Long Visit To The Quays

Despite the late pub crawl thru King’s Head, The Quays, MacNeill’s and a few other short stops, the group rallied to meet for breakfast and our last full day together.  We spent the day wandering through the Farmer’s Market, checking out the Galway Cathedral, walking down the river path.  The locals were out in droves enjoying the spectacular weather with picnics, biking, lounging and fishing.  We spent some time talking with one guy who was catching salmon. We tried to get him to invite us for dinner but no luck.

We ran into another round of weddings.  The cathedral was completely decorated for an afternoon wedding by a local husband and wife team who were working on several wedding events for the day.  Then we photo bombed a couple in Eyre Square and joined in briefly in a reception in our hotel.  Of course everyone was telling the classic Irish joke about weddings and funerals: “You know the difference between an Irish wedding and a funeral? One less drunk.”

We landed int The Oyster Bar at The Harriman to discuss dinner plans.  Their cocktail list was very impressive so Ida suggested we play The Birthday Cocktail Game.  It’s very simple, everyone orders a different drink then tastes them.  We managed to work our way through the entire list and a few not on the list. By that time, it was time for an early dinner and we decided Italian with pizza and pasta to absorb things was the best bet so we headed to Fat Freddy’s, an excellent place and geographically desirable as it was located next to The Quays.

Ed and I visited Ireland and Galway in particular many times.  Two of his favorite bars there were The Quays and MacNeills (in the Hardiman nee Great Southern).  We headed into The Quays again for music, dancing and to toast the trip.  Because we were earlier we managed to secure a table near the musicians and had a fantastic time.  When several in the group raised the white flag, we headed back towards the hotel.

Ida, Faye and I weren’t ready to call it quits yet so we headed into McNeills.  The custom in a hotel bar in Ireland is that they don’t close as long as the guest wants to keep going.  On one trip, we kept the accommodating man working until 5am. There was no real risk of that this time but we enjoyed the musician and a final round of toasting Ed & Roger.

Not A Quiet Woman In The Lot Of You

We left Doolin knowing we’d return on a future visit.  The scheduled drive was an easier one today through The Burren to Ashford Castle and Cong. For those familiar with mandatory Irish movies, Ashford Castle’s grounds and Cong were used in the filming of the Quiet Man.  Ford, Wayne, O’Hara and the rest had a rowdy time filming and the sets are all well marked.  Ashford Castle is a stunning private resort where gaining admittance is not easy.  Ida had arranged for a wine tasting in the wine cellars there but we had to get by the gate sentry and then the castle guards first.  They took one look at our group and I’m sure reflected on a line from the film where Wayne is dragging Maureen O’Hare through the sheep fields on the Ashford Castle grounds - Here’s a stick to beat the lovely lady with.

The tour started with a visit to the wine cellar rooms and tunnel that leads outside for deliveries.  The Ashford wine collection includes some of the priciest and rarest wines in the world.  Needless to say, we weren’t allowed to touch any of the bottles.  The wine tasting we had selected was Que Shiraz Shirah and as it turned out caused a bit more work for the Head Sommelier as it was not a tasting that was being offered anymore.  He was a down to earth, entertaining host who quickly assessed his audience as being more nonchalant than the average Ashford Castle guest.  After the tasting, he gave us a tour of the castle and permission to visit the grounds before departing.  It is definitely a place to splurge and stay at for a future visit.

Cong is best know for the pub and fight scenes in the movie. It was very crowded with several large family events but we managed to find room at Danagher’s for a pint and a bit of lunch.  Then we headed off to Galway to check in to our lodging there - The Hardiman on Eyre Square (formerly the Great Southern).  Fortunately for Ida and I they didn’t recall our former visits to the establishment where we once kept the bar open until 5am.

This is where we had to part with our driver, Trudy -  Taisteal Sabhailte.  She was a marvelous complement to our travels and made things so much easier.

May The Wind Be At Your Back On Inish Mor

Ida, Paula and I rallied after the late night Irish music fest/wedding party to meet the group for breakfast and catch the 9 am ferry to Irish Mor, the largest of the Aran Islands and site of some of the filming of Banshees film.  The ride was a bit bouncy but everyone retained their breakfast.  Trudy had arranged for us to take a jaunty cart tour with Martin.  His father and brother are also jaunty cart drivers.

 Martin was born and raised on Inish Mor, left to go to college and spent time working in Galway and Australia.  He moved back with his wife and 3 year old child to have more quality time.  He took one look at us and inquired as to whether we might need a stop in the pub to clear the head before settting out.  We declined but did get hot coffee and bundled up in the Irish woolen blankets.  The wind coming into the jaunty cart was more than brisk which led Ida to comment “This must be why the blessing is May the Wind Be always At your Back.”  

As we set out for the drive Martin gave us an overview of the island - 800 residents, electricity since the 1970s, 3 schools, 3 cemeteries, 3 pubs, 3 churches and only 1 forgiving priest.   Inish Mor is stunning with very different scenery.  You can see the ocean everywhere.  The traditional rock walls, sheep and cattle but the plots are much smaller than on the mainland.  As he entertained us with his family history and the history of Ireland and the islands, he suggested we do the first hike up to the ruins of a stone fort, then have lunch at the pub, followed by a hike to the worm hole.  The hike to the fort was not to bad as there was a clear path and the rock stairs were navigable.  Though there must be a lot of issues with people falling as the warning signs were everywhere.  The views were fabulous. We stopped in the small pub for the classic soup of the day choices- tomato or cream of vegetable with brown bread.  Only Nan dared to go with a Guinness .

After lunch, Martin drove around the side of the island where the wind was at our back which was definitely more comfortable.  Trudy had warned us that the worm hole (a natural tidal pool carved out of the granite) hike required sturdy shoes and balance.  Martin said he was certain we could handle it and that 99% of the people find the hole and return.  It’s a crazy hike with no real trail and pretty much all boulders.  Red Bull had a contest a few years back where people jumped from the cliff into the worm hole so every once in a while we managed to find an arrow directing us.  Again the views were stunning but caution is need -  someone from another group slipped and fell into an algae pool.  We wrapped up the hike and found Martin chatting with a neighbor.  Ida commented that they had made up theirs hikes to keep the tourists busy while they chatted. Martin took us back to the pier to catch the ferry with enough time for a pint at Tigh Joe MacDonough’s where we raised a toast to my friend’s father, Joseph Patrick McDonough.

For our return ferry, we also went to see the Cliffs of Moher from below.  This turned out to be a very rough ride and while no one in our group had an issue the crew had to help several people who got hurly.  We wrapped up the day with a five star meal at Fiddle & Bow then returned to McDermott’s for another night of Irish music and craic.

You Haven’t Danced Til You’ve Danced In Doolin

Departure days always seem to be a bit more disorganized. Ida and I did spend the last night in Dingle drinking with Sheri McDonough & crew which likely contributed to the disorder sorting out where to get lattes in the morning.  Staff and Pig & leaf were very patient as we ordered up the 6 lattes for take away.  Then we were off for more travel on the Wild Atlantic Road .  Today’s section was the drive to Doolin via Conor pass and the Cliffs of Moher. 

Conor Pass was a famine project.  The British assigned Irish Catholics work for 1 pence a day.  The Conor pass was a narrow winding road carved between the mountains connecting tone side of the Dingle peninsula to the other.  It’s not as long or high as the Million Dollar highway between Durango and Silverton but has the same vibe. There are a few parts where the road is barely wide enough for a single car so the driver has to pay attention to oncoming traffic and wait as needed.  

Our route required crossing the Shannon via a ferry.  It’s a short trip over and a much nicer way to get to Doolin than risking the traffic in Limerick.  They must have a few ferry users who hit the snack bar and then have issues navigating the stairs to the upper deck.

The Cliffs Of Moher are indeed a natural wonder and not to be missed. Until recently, the best way to get to the cliffs and avoid the mess in the parking lot was to head down a dirt road where you paid the farmer 10 Euro, parked in his field and took a short hike to the cliffs.  Unfortunately the government has now outlawed him and others from that additional source of revenues.  Our driver explained that because the parking now would charge 15 Euro per person rather than the carload that was considered outrageous. Because they also station security guards at key places it is difficult for the drivers to easily drop people off.  So the process now is, she stops the van briefly at the pedestrian crosswalk and everyone piles out of the car.  It’s rather like a Chinese firedrill. We managed to all pile out and get across without getting hit. 

After the Cliffs we headed to our lodging in Doolin.  Doolin is a very small town but very well know for being the heart of traditional Irish music.  Its location is just a short drive from the Cliffs and it’s directly across from the Aran Islands.  Our hotel, the Fiddle & Bow, was excellent and a very short walk to everything.  We found O’Connor’s pub and of course the requisite picture of the Kennedys.  As the Irish would say, the group was a bit peckish and we landed at McDermott’s for a late lunch.

Paula, Ida and I wandered back up the road from the Fiddle & Bow Hotel to McDermott’s for a bit of traditional Irish music.  When we had lunch we noticed that Blackie O’Connell was the listed musician for the night.  Blackie plays the Irish pipes - Uilleann pipes.  The Uilleann is played using your arms not blowing into the pipes.  Our driver told us he was one of the top musicians in Ireland and not to be missed.  He was part of a trio with a fiddler and bouzoukis players.  They were amazing and the crowd was great.  We lucked out and sat a table that was empty so when a bridal party showed up we were happy to have them join us.  They had gotten married earlier in the day at the Cliffs of Moher.  We had a great time sharing in their wedding festivities and the brothers of the groom were clearly having a wild time.

As the trio wrapped up for the evening, they announced “You haven’t danced til you’ve danced in Doolin.”  At that point all locals stood up and cleared the stools from the room to create a space for dancing.  The musicians launched in to a lively set and things started hopping.  Paula channeled her Oklahoma square dancing skills and we all got hopping.

At the end of the dancing the band announced they were finished.  One of the local older gents came over to make sure we wouldn’t leave. “Don’t go as my friends and I will be singing a bit and that’s the real show.”  So we were forced to order more drinks and were glad we did.  The locals young and old sat around and entertained with their singing. Walking out, we stopped briefly to talk to the band.  We’re pretty certain that if Nan had been with us she’d have had us joining their after party and we’d have been a lot longer.  

The Dingle Dangle Tango

 

After a bit of difficulty sorting out how to operate the showers, (plumbing s always a challenge overseas) we were all cleaned up and ready to roll when Trudy picked us up this morning.  In planning the trip, we decided to bring the crew out to the Dingle peninsula  and take the Wild Atlantic route rather than the more common Ring of Kerry.  The Dingle peninsula is less crowded and really provides more of a feel for the “real” Ireland.  

This part of Ireland has been featured in many movies including Ryan’s Daughter, Far & Away (where Tom Cruise completely butchered the Irish accent) and Star Wars.  Star Wars fans travel here to check out the stone “bee hives” and Skellig Island.  

This time of year it is two way traffic on the road which in places is barely wide enough for one car.  Having an expert local driver really adds an entertaining dimension and takes all the stress out of it as we’re just along for the ride.  In a few spots obvious tourist drivers did not understand the protocols on when to give way.  It was great listening to Trudy discuss the bad drivers with the driver of one of the large buses. The conversation really highlights the Irish craic- dry wit, sense of humor.

Trudy: Did you pass those two in the camper?

           Bus Driver:  Oh yes.  Ignorant as piss they are.  They’re just eejits.  You know there have to be two eejits born every day so if one of them dies you still have one.

One of Trudy’s friends is a multi-generational sheep farmer whose farm is perched on the edge of the Dingle peninsula.  The farmer makes certain to tell everyone not to put their fingers in the lambs mouth, not to hold them in the rear and to make certain to wash your hands with soap and water after handling them.  You would think those instructions wouldn’t be necessary but then again based on the some of the driving we saw I think he’s learned to spell things out.  You can pick up the baby lambs, help feed them and also checkout the stone beehives.  Ida was definitely very leery about getting in the pen with the lambs until she spotted a small black one that looked a lot like her old dog Oscar.  Feeding time is crazy and the little ones all fight to get at the bottle.  

The weather was perfect for a bit of a hike thru the sheep’s grazing area to the top of a hill where the views to Skellig and the coasts were spectacular.  Dodging the sheep’s manure was a bit challenging but we were grateful that the locals had installed “stairs” which made getting over the stone walls much easier. You wouldn’t think you’d need big warning signs about not falling over the cliff but clearly there are enough eejits to warrant the signage.

After the narrow roads, sheep action and hiking, Trudy thought maybe a stop for a pint would be in order. Kruger’s Bar is the western most pub in Ireland.  We stopped in and had to try the Dingle gin mojito and check out the memorabilia.  JFK is still the man to talk about here.  There were also a lot of pictures from Tom Cruise’s time here when filming Far & Away though the majority of those pictures didn’t feature Tom or Nicole.  Most were from all the locals who were extras in the film.

We wrapped up the afternoon with a stop at John Long’s Pub for lunch and more Dingle gin.  Then walked around Dingle town center to check out the shops and pick up a few needed supplies before heading back to the house for a much needed nap.  

Trudy is coming back to pick us up about 6:45 and will drop us off in town for the night’s activity.  Wisely she heads to her own accommodation and recommends having the bartender arrange for transport when the pubs close. Paula has planned the evening pub crawl to get some singing in: The Dingle Inn (also for Irish dancing here), Geaney’s,  Foxy John’s, Dick Mack’s, O’Sullivan’s and likely a few others. We’re hooking up with friends from KC, Sheri McDonough King and her husband Rob for a final Irish coffee before heading back to the cottage.

 

The Drive To The West

Ida & I have both had prior experience driving in Ireland and opted to take the route of hiring a driver for this trip which was a brilliant decision.  Our driver, Trudy, picked us up at our Dublin Hotel in a VW people mover with plenty of room for us & the luggage.  In addition to her driving skills, Trudy is a genealogist, tour guide and has connections for arranging everything.

She mapped out our drive from Dublin  with stops at the Rock of Cashel, a jaunty cart tour in Killarney of the National Park, the beach in Inch and ending with our stay at a 100+ year old self farm cottage just outside of Dingle.  The farm house is heated by two fireplaces that burn wood, coal and peat.  Fortunately for me, Ida and the Mississippi crowd are well versed in the art of building and maintaining a fire.

Knowing it was going to be a long day in the car, Ida and Trudy also arranged to have Caroline, a private chef, handle the dinner.  From the start with a Dingle gin tasting & cheese board the meal was a five star event.  All locally sourced and freshly prepared the multi-course meal included seafood chowder with brown bread, a trio of salads (potato salad, quinoa, and heritage beets salad), main course of rack of spring lamb, broccoli purée, and a trio of potatoes (mashed, mashed sweet potatoes and roasted potatoes and carrots). It all wrapped up with Kerry apple cake and brownies topped with fresh whipped cream.  In addition to her extraordinary cooking/pastry skills, Caroline also entertained us with traditional Irish songs and a tin flute. It was the perfect introduction to the west of Ireland.

The Bad Sisters Wrap Up Dublin & Head To The West

Sunday weather was a bit dodgy with intermittent rain and the crew was a bit under the weather after the Saturday night pub crawl so a later lie in was required.  We had a scheduled entrance for the Book of Kells at 1 which meant enough time for breakfast at Bewley’s Oriental Cafe and a stroll down Grafton Street to Trinity College. The Covid sign in the loo made me wonder if hand washing was not required pre-Covid.

Founded in 1592, Trinity College is Ireland’s oldest university one of the most places in Dublin.  The Book of Kells is housed there. The Book Of Kells is an illustrated manuscript of the 4 gospels dating back to the 800s. Written by monks in Latin and painstakingly illustrated in brilliant pigments, a new page of the manuscript is displayed each day.  There has been a lot more technology added to the tour since my first visit in the ‘90s.  The  Long Room (library) is an amazing space which normally houses over 200,000 books.  The library is currently undergoing a major restoration project so the majority of the books have been removed and are contained in over 30,000 containers.  The archiving task alone is remarkable. Also on display in the Long Room is one of the only remaining original Proclamations (the Irish Declaration of Independence) from the Easter Rising in 1916 and Brian Boru’s harp, Ireland’s oldest surviving harp.

Leaving Trinity College, we headed across the River Liffey to the Famine Sculptures.  The sculptures were commissioned in 1997 to honor the more than 1 million who died and the over 1,000,000 who emigrated, many to the United States. The sculptures are located on Customs House Quay in the Dockland’s area marking the spot where many of the Famine ships set sail.  The Irish Potato Famine occurred in the mid-1800’s when the potato crops were destroyed by the blight and British policy including evictions, exportation of other food crops and refusal to provide any aid.  The effects of the famine permanently changed Ireland.  

The clouds started to look ominous and it was clearly going to start raining, so Ida led the crew on a forced march down the River Liffey to the pedestrian Ha’Penny bridge knowing it was the fastest route to the pub zone.  We loaded in to the Ha’Pebby Bridge Pub just in time.  We waited out the rain with a few  Irish Coffees and what Ida refers to as a full housewife pour of wine. 

As we headed back through the Temple bar area, we noticed the Whiskey Reserve Bar was not crowded.  We had attempted entry on Saturday night but were unsuccessful so it seemed like a positive sign that there was a large open table.  The collection of Irish and Scotch whiskeys is impressive and the bartenders know how to make fabulous concoctions with them.  However, their ability to make a vodka martini was more of a challenge.

The Proper Pint

 

After all the chaos at Heathrow, Ida broke her consecutive wordle streak after 375 days.  Bummer so the new streak starts today but at least she solved it in 2 goes.  We can see the hills surrounding Dublin from our hotel which is just off St. Stephen’s Green.  The hotel key card very thoughtfully has a small map on back.  That in combination with Apple’s Find my Friends feature should help keep the group intact or at least make it easier to track down anyone who gets lost. I’ve left Ed on my list as that way I can be sure he’s always there.

The group was a bit slow to start but everyone slept well.  Ida had mapped out a tight walking tour schedule starting at The Castle, then Christ Church Cathedral, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, The Guinness Storehouse (tour, Guinness Academy, dinner) and ending with a pub crawl.  We kicked off the morning at a local grocer/deli Fallon & Byrne for a bit of late breakfast.

The Castle was the seat of British power in Ireland for over 700 years.  The current structure dates back to the 1700s and has been used for inaugurations, housing foreign visitors (JFK) and entertaining. The collection of  paintings includes George III who we gave a good drubbing to in 1776.  A statue of Michael Collins and pictures of those executed after the Easter Uprising are on display.  Ida found a photo of the Irish President who visited her when she was on the trading floor at the Chicago Merc.

Christ Church Cathedral is over 1,000 years old making it one of the oldest buildings in Dublin.  The Medieval Crypt runs under the entire length of the building and is the largest in Ireland. At one point there were 4 taverns located there which caused a lot of problems when services were being held in the upstairs church. 

Jonathon Swift was a preacher at St. Patrick’s Cathedral and known for sermons that ran 4 hours or longer.  He had a specially constructed movable pulpit which allowed him to seek out anyone sleeping during his sermon and rouse them up. The well where St. Patrick baptized the first Irish Catholics is located just outside the cathedral.

The Guinness Storehouse tour was a great way to learn about the national drink of Ireland. The Irish Dancers on floor 3 were amazing. After the self guided tour, we went to the Guinness Academy where we were instructed on the proper process for pulling a pint. We then headed upstairs for another pint at The Gravity Bar which is a circular glass enclosed space at the top of the factory.  The views of the mountains and Dublin skyline are amazing.

The Pub Crawl started at Ireland’s oldest pub, The Brazen Head.  We started there as this same group had previously been escorted out of New York’s oldest bar, McSorley’s.  As it was a big bank holiday weekend, there were a lot of groups in town celebrating birthdays and hen/stag parties (aka bachelorette/bachelor).  We joined in the singing competitions and the hen parties. One group was toting around a blowup doll of the groom. Another group was a joint hen/stag with a cowboy theme including boots, hats and leather Johnny Cash jackets.  Fortunately for us, the Irish are a lot more lax on behaviors and we were not escorted out of any. We managed to keep the entire group together for all the pub stops and the return walk to the hotel.  All in all it was a perfect full day to kick off the tour.